The Value of Trees

Imagine a world without trees. It’s virtually impossible, because without trees we can’t survive. Trees are essential to life and yet, they are taken for granted. Unfortunately, one million acres of forest are lost to city growth each year.

Trees offer many benefits that are obscure to many, which include:

• Air Filtration- filters out particulate matter and absorbs harmful gases
• Purifies Water-improves water quality by slowing and filtering rain water
• Cost Reduction- provides shade and shelter, reducing yearly heating and cooling costs by 2.1 billion dollars
• Climate Control-obtained by moderating the effects of sun, wind, and rain
• Increase Property Value- well-cared landscape properties are 5-20% more valuable than non-landscaped estates
• Protection-from downward fall of rain, sleet, and hail, as well as reducing storm run-off, and the possibility of flooding
• Glare and Reflection Control
• Wind Break, Deflection, and Filtration
• Sound Barrier

Since trees are a growing asset to any property, maintenance of the trees is crucial for long-term health, safety, and aesthetic value. Many people do not realize that trees have a dollar value of their own. Competent tree appraisers can determine the dollar value of your trees and plants by evaluating the size, type (classification), condition, and location of the tree.

Why Trees are Green

Why are trees green? After all, if plants wanted to absorb the maximum amount of sunlight, they’d be black.

You can see the answer in lakes and oceans that have a purple tinge to them. Purple is a tricky colour - it’s actually a mixture of red and blue. Complimentary colours are tricky. Purple is white light with the green colour removed. Green is white light with the purple colour removed. I think the French impressionists were the first to paint the shadow under green trees as purple, not black.

Andrew Goldsworthy, a British botanist, has worked out a theory. Modern green plants appeared on the planet late in the scene, and he reckons that the best colour had already been picked. So plants are green because something else isn’t.

The original non-green plants can still be found in some Australian salt lakes. While sea water is only 4% salt, some salt lakes can be reach 20%. In many of these salt lakes you’ll find a bacteria called Halbacterium halobium, a living fossil. It thrives, where other creatures would die from the high salt levels and heart attacks. But if the salt level falls low enough for other creatures to grow - it dies.

Halobacterium lives in a salty world by itself - a world free of competition - so evolution has passed Halobacterium by. Some scientists are sure that Halobacterium , or at least its very close relatives, have been found in fossils 3,000 million years old - so it’s been around a very long time.

Halobacterium was one of the first solar powered creatures. It discovered photosynthesis - being able to get energy out of sunlight.. Halobacterium does not have any green chlorophyll in it. Instead, it is loaded up with a purple chemical - but why is purple a better colour for solar energy collectors?

White sunlight is made up of many different colours - from red to green to blue. But the Sun puts out most of its energy in the middle of the visible spectrum - green. So for a solar-powered leaf to work at top efficiency it should suck out most of green light. When you suck away the green out of white light, you end up reflecting red and blue light which mix to make purple.

So purple Halobacterium spread across the planet, because of its free energy supply. But it had one great weakness. It could not use carbon dioxide from the atmosphere to make simple sugars. So even if it had a free energy supply, it had to eat up big if it wanted to get bigger.

Andrew Goldsworthy’s theory says a new creature evolved to fill this ecological niche. Not only did it have a free energy supply from the Sun, it could turn air into new leaves. Green photosynthesis kick-started the oxygen atmosphere, stabilised the temperature, and made life as we know it possible.

This creature turned out to be the mother of all plants - the green algae - but why green ?. Think back to our Halobacterium floating on the surface of the water, absorbing all the green light. The mother of all plants, the new intruder, was floating down below, waiting in the wings. Only blue and the red light would have filtered down through the water. It wasn’t the light with the most energy, but it was all there was at the time, and the new plants had to make the most of it. So they invented chlorophyll - which is green.

But why didn’t the green algae choose to be black. After all, black is the most efficient absorbing colour of all. Well there’s another factor - temperature control. The best temperature for leaves is between 10 and 30°C. A tree can control the temperature of its leaves using a number of tactics - absorbing or evaporating water, the shape of the leaf, the depth of the canopy and the colour of the leaves. When you look at a tree, you’ll see that the leaves at the bottom of the canopy are much darker in colour than the leaves at the top. They are not at risk for overheaing, because they are shaded by the upper leaves.

So that’s probably why the plants didn’t undergo a further evolution to be black - because they’d overheat in summer. Just think if things had been different - it wouldn’t be Greenpeace out there saving the whales, it would be Purplepeace!

Glossary of Tree and Leaf Terms

ALTERNATE: leaves that are staggered or not placed directly across from each other on the twig.

BLADE: the flat part of a leaf, or leaflet, characteristic of deciduous trees.

BROADLEAF: a tree with leaves that are flat and thin and generally shed annually.

BUD SCAR: the marks remaining after bud scales drop in spring.

COMPOUND LEAF: a leaf with more than one blade. All blades are attached to a single leafstem. Where the leafstem attaches to the twig there is a bud.

CONIFER: cone-bearing tree.

DECIDUOUS: shedding all leaves annually.

ENTIRE: a leaf margin with smooth, untoothed edges.

EVERGREEN: trees with needles or leaves that remain alive and on the tree through the winter and into the next growing season.

LEAF SCAR: the mark left on the twig where the leaf was previously attached.

LOBES: projections that shape a leaf.

MARGIN: the edge of a leaf.

MIDRIB: the primary rib or central vein of a leaf.

OPPOSITE: 2 or 3 leaves that are directly across from each other on the same twig.

PALMATE: blades or lobes or veins of the leaf arranged like fingers on the palm of a hand.

PETIOLE: the leafstalk that connects the blade(s) to the twig.

PINNATE: blades or lobes or veins of the leaf arranged like the vanes of a feather.

SAMARA: winged fruit.

SIMPLE LEAF: a single leaf blade with a bud at the base of the leafstem.

SINUS: indentation between lobes on a leaf.

SPURS: stubby, often sharp twigs.

TEETH: notches on the outer edge of a leaf.

Real Estate Value of Trees

Urban Forests Can Increase Real Estate Values

Property values increase 5-15% when compared to properties without trees (depends on species, maturity, quantity and location).

A study that evaluated the effects of several different variables on homes in Manchester, Connecticut, found that street trees added about $4,686 or 6% to the sale price of a home.

A more recent study in indicated that trees added $9,500, or more than 8 percent, to the average sale price of a residence in a suburb of Hamilton, Ontario.

Glossary of Tree Terms

acid
pH - acidity or alkalinity ranging from 3 (strongly acid) to 11 (strongly alkaline) with 7 being neutral.

alkaline
pH - acidity or alkalinity ranging from 3 (strongly acid) to 11 (strongly alkaline) with 7 being neutral.

alleopathy
The suppression of growth of one plant species by another due to the release of toxic substances.

alternate
Leaves that are staggered, not placed directly across from each other on the twig.

anthracnose
A group of fungi that cause dieback and sometimes death to various species, such as dogwoods, sycamores, oaks, and maples.

blade
The flat part of a leaf or leaflet, characteristic of broadleaf trees.

bract
A modified leaf that bears a flower.

broadleaf
A tree with leaves that are flat and thin, and generally shed annually.

bud scar
the marks remaining after bud scales drop in the spring.

clingstone
any of various stone fruits (as some peaches or plums) with flesh that adheres strongly to the pit.

compound leaf
a leaf with more than one blade. All blades are attached to a single leafstem. Where the leafstem attaches to the twig, there is a bud.

conifer
A cone-bearing tree.

cross-pollination
fertilization between genetically compatible trees for better fruit, often resulting in superior offspring.

crown
The head of foliage of a tree or shrub — this is the form or shape of the tree.

deciduous
Shedding all leaves annually.

entire
A leaf margin with smooth, untoothed edges.

evergreen
Trees with needles or leaves that remain alive and on the tree through the winter and into the next growing season.

exfoliate
peeling in shreds or thin layers, as bark from a tree.

freestone
A fruit stone to which the flesh does not cling.

habit
The general mode of plant growth. Used to describe the overall shape of a tree.

hardiness zone
A plant can be expected to grow in the zone’s temperature extremes, as determined by the lowest annual temperature. Other conditions such as moisture, soil, and wind might affect the availability of individual plants.

knees
The tree trunk in wet conditions exhibits a broad buttress with protrusions from the roots.

leaf scar
The mark left on the twig where the leaf was previously attached.

lobes
Projections that shape a leaf.

margin
The edge of a leaf.

midrib
The primary rib or central vein of a leaf.

native
Inherent and original to a geographic area.

opposite
Two or three leaves that are directly across from each other on the same twig.

palmate
Blades or lobes or veins of the leaf arranged like fingers on the palm of a hand.

persistent
Deciduous leaf blades that remain on the tree for more than a year.

petiole
The leafstalk that connects the blade(s) to the twig.

phytoremediation
The use of trees to take up chemicals, binding some of the material in an inert form with the tree, and converting some of it to other substances, possibly even breaking it down into the normal end product of a tree’s chemical processes.

pinnate
Blades of lobes or veins of the leaf arranged like vanes of a feather.

pistil
The seed-bearing organ of the flower. The pistil consists of an ovary, stigma, and style when present.

pollination
To transfer pollen from the anther of a stamen to the stigma of a pistil, resulting in fertilization. This can occur either on a single plant (self-pollination) or between different plants. Insect pollination and wind pollination are two examples of natural pollination.

reforestation
The planting of forested land that has been lost due to fire, logging, drought, pests, or disease to restore beauty to the landscape, provide food and habitat for wildlife, and for recreational activities.

riparian zone
an area of ecological transition between the aquatic zone and the upland zone.

rootstock
The root upon which the scion is grafted.

samara
Winged fruit.

scion
The part of the tree that is grafted or budded to rootstock.

self-fertile / self-pollinating
Fertile by means of its own pollen; this makes it theoretically possible for both pollen and ovules to unite and produce fruit without a second tree being present.

simple leaf
A single leaf blade with a bud at the base of the leafstem.

sinus
Indentation between lobes on a leaf.

specimen tree
A tree placed so people can gain the greatest enjoyment for the color, texture, scent, or other pleasures it provides.

spurs
Stubby, often sharp twigs.

teeth
Notches on the outer edge of a leaf.

triploid
Having three sets of chromosomes rather than the usual two. As a result, the pollen is sterile.

xeriscape
Saving water while maintaining trees and other plants in the landscape.

 

Dutchman Tree Potter

In keeping with Dutchman’s continued focus to meet the demands of the nursery industry, Dutchman Industries meets the demand for potting machinery. Recently, we have been able to develop both a two-bladed and a three-bladed potting machine. Both machines have blades that are contoured to the shape and depth of both fiber and plastic pots.

Features:

• Custom-built to meet your exact pot size;
• Operated with a Standard Control Box or an optional Pistol Grip Joystick;
• Blades sizes range from 14 - 22 inch in diameter and cover two sizes;
• Overhead Skidsteer frame provides added down pressure and visibility ;
• Interchangeable blades available;
• Skidsteer or Excavator mounts available;

All Potters weigh approximately 500 - 600 lbs.and are built with strength and durability in mind.

For more information on the Dutchman Potters here »

Dutchman Tree Spade 950

95″ Curved-Blade

Dutchman Industries is proud to introduce its newest spade to our line of nursery products. The 95 Tree Spade has been years in development. Its spherical frame, and smooth towers, allow for greater clearance around a tree and help eliminate branch damage. It also carries an unsurpassed opening to wrap around even the widest tree.

The 95 has the ability to carry blades that will dig a 95-inch true ball. Our main focus was to build a tree spade with “cold-formed” blades. The most common problem in producing a curved blade is maintaining the integrity of the steel. When steel has been heated, no amount of heat treating or quenching will ever restore the steel to its original hardness.

The 95 Tree Spade has been tested in the roughest conditions and has passed with flying colours. And it’s vailable with Telescopic Hydraulic Cylinders.

Features

The 95″ spade was built with height and width legalities in mind. The system was formulated to allow the blade cylinder to travel down the tower as the blade moves down. When the blade is fully coned, the cylinders are neatly tucked in to the towers. This system allows us to have a long stroke on a single-stage cylinder, which gives you maximum power at a constant speed.

Dutchman blades are cold-formed and therefore are the strongest blades on the market. This means that no heat is applied when the blades are shaped. More strength in the blade will translate to fewer problems down the road as other blades have a tendency to bend and spread.

The blade cylinders that we use are 4 1/2″ bore, which can exceed driving forces of 45,000 pounds. This surpasses most of the competitors by 10,000 lbs. or more. More power allows you to dig better in harsh conditions like dry hard clay.

The frame on the 95” is a circular frame. The high strength metal and larger hinges make it the most durable in the business. The large inner diameter allows the gates to open wider then any other spade. This feature enables you to encompass wide-branched trees with ease. (i.e. Large Pines or Multi-Stems).

All and all, in our opinion, the Dutchman 95 is the finest engineered spade on the market. Through years of researching Truck Spades and knowing the competition, we realized that a better solution could be achieved. It has been digging for over a year now and has dug several hundred trees in all types of conditions. We feel our customers will be thoroughly impressed with its simplicity and durability.

For more information on the 95 Tree Spade here »

The Dutchman Tree Spade

Why buy a Dutchman?

When buying a Dutchman Spade it is important to purchase one that will maximize your digging production. Since various nurseries can have various digging conditions, climates, and habits, we at Dutchman are committed to ensuring that you buy the right spade for your application. If your spade needs to be altered, or changed slightly to meet your nursery requirements, we can accommodate. Below are answers to facts or concerns and are crucial to know when buying your tree spade

We built it for ourselves first.

As a 1000 acre nursery digging over 50,000 trees per year, we wanted to produce a spade that had everything that one would look for in a spade. We wanted to be sure that it met all that others were lacking. Even though some spades were beneficial in some conditions, they could be detrimental in others. The goal was to find a design that would give us the best possible production in all circumstances. The result was a durable, solid weld tree spade.

Dutchman’s 1 to 1 ratio.

You may have heard us mention the 1 to 1 ratio on our tree spade blades and wondered what this means. This means that the amount of blade that is welded to the tower is equal to the digging depth. This ensures that the torque placed on the blade while digging is properly supported. This will keep the blades from bending, warping, or (in the worst case), fracturing.

Electric and Manual Valves.

Throughout Dutchman’s history, we have tested and sampled various electric and hydraulic valves. Although many valves have different features, we have found the the steel valve, with individual control functions, work best and last the longest. Dutchman valves are the only ones that have an “Unloader” on them to ensure that the hydraulic oil does not heat up. When digging 10 hours a day, this can mean the difference between digging every order, or replacing seals on a valve.

Best gate hinge in the industry.

The gate hinge has been modified over the years to provide better durability. It is designed as a “finger-lock” rather than the old plate-over-a-plate design. The old design was much like the competition that had a plate that folded over another plate. The trouble with this design is that it required constant cleaning to allow the plate to completely close over the other. Otherwise the blades would gap from each other. The old design would also stress the gate pin and it would wear, get lose, or facture. The new gate design eliminates all of these issues. Although we always recommend greasing, this gate system could go without greasing because it is manufactured with replaceable bushings that can be easily changed at a later date.

Visibility and keeping the Hook-up close.

In order to maximize the size of tree spade on your skid steer, Dutchman makes certain that the hook-up plate is as close to the tree spade as possible. Every inch closer make a huge difference in the tipping factor. We also cut the top of the hook-up plate to allow the operator to view the entire tree while sitting comfortably in his/her seat. The ability to view the entire plant is the same reason we keep the gate cylinders to the outside of the frame. Gate cylinders placed on the inside of the spade frame can restrict visibility and make it increasingly more difficult to center a tree.

No clipping roots from your spade blades?

The Dutchman spade shears virtually every root, every time. Even the toughest locust trees are no match for the Dutchman blades. The Dutchman blades are designed to follow their straight-line travel path every time they are pushed into the ground. Any unforeseen obstacles will be shifted as the blades pass so as to ensure blade overlap for years and years.

No maintenance or adjustments.

All of our spades are straight welded eliminating any moving parts like nuts, bolts, bushings, or pins. All of these unfortunately can wear or break after a short period of time leading to distorted blade configuration or worse; bent.

Tree Transplanting Guidelines

1. Plan ahead to match the species to the area or site to be planted, i.e., plant the right tree in the right place. Is the site appropriate for the tree that you want to place there?

2. Select high-quality plants without visible damage at the nursery or local garden center. Look for vigorous growth, good leaf color and roots that are white and firm.

3. Be careful in handling and transporting the tree to the planting site. Take extra care not to damage the bark or the root system.

4. Properly prepare the planting hole. The hole should be at least three times as wide as the root ball, have sloped sides and be no deeper than the root ball.

5. Plant the tree as soon as possible. Do not use soil amendments. Backfill with the same soil which was removed from the hole. Mulch.

6. Water, but do not overwater, newly transplanted trees. Irrigate slowly so that water infiltrates and soaks the ground. Watering for several years, especially during droughty periods, may be necessary until the tree is fully established.

Moving trees with a Tree Spade

Tree spading is a common method for moving and transplanting large trees from one site to another. The following are some reasons for transplanting large trees vs. younger, smaller trees are:

• To prevent the loss of a tree due to building, roadway expansion or other construction;
• To create space for a new building addition;
• A particular mature tree has outgrown its present location;
• To alter the design of a landscape;
• To move a tree to a site better suited to its needs;
• To create a mature landscape quickly.

Initially, transplanting a tree with a tree spade may be more costly than purchasing container stock or B&B trees. However, the tree spade may be the best option if a tree will otherwise be lost or if the value of the tree outweighs the moving costs. Spading is also saves labor, planting time and years of maintenance of the juvenile tree. Spading also eliminates the possible risk of mower damage that commonly occurs on younger, smaller trees.

Tree spades are used in various ways throughout the green industry. Commercial nurseries use tree spades to lift large, field-grown trees out of the soil, and wrap the root ball in burlap and twine (termed “ball and burlap” or B&B) for retail sale or compact storage. Landscape companies and arborists use spades to plant large trees that are nursery-grown or have been moved from elsewhere in the landscape. Landscape professionals use a tree spade to create an “instant landscape” by digging and transplanting large trees from one location to another.

Homeowners can also use spades to locate trees on residential sites. Trailer-mounted spades that can hold a soil ball up to 44 inches in diameter are available at some rental centers. However, due to safety issues, and the complexity of the equipment and processes involved, it is strongly recommended that individuals hire an experienced contractor specializing in tree spading to transplant trees.

Always contact the proper company or municipality for the location of underground utilities prior to digging. It is also important that you locate private lines such as irrigation systems, wiring for landscape lighting, water lines that serve water fountains and ponds, etc.

Supplies and Specifications:

Tree spades are available in a variety of types and sizes. Some spades have the capacity to move a tree with a maximum trunk diameter of eight to 10 inches, or a soil ball up to 90 inches in diameter. The size of the spade is critical. It must be large enough to accommodate a root ball that will sufficiently sustain the tree after planting. If a spade is too small, the root system will be too small to allow for long term establishment and the tree will die. When determining the spade size needed to move a tree, deciduous trees are measured by trunk diameter and evergreens are measured by tree height. A tree spade can be used to move one tree at a time or a pod trailer may be used to move as many as three trees at one time.

Tree spade size	Deciduous tree - trunk diameter	Evergreen tree - height
44 inches	2 to 3 inches	5 to 7 feet
66 inches	3 to 5 inches	7 to 10 feet
92 inches	6 to 8 inches	12 to 15 feet
Trunk diameters are measured using a caliper, six inches above the ground for tree four inches in diameter or smaller and 12 inches above the ground for trees with a large diameter.

Fig. 1 Tree spades according to tree sizes

Many trees can be moved any time of the year using a tree spade, providing the ground is not frozen. Certain species such as firs, maples, and spruce are best transplanted during the cooler months of spring and early fall. Plants moved in the summer and fall should be dug with an oversized root ball with special attention paid to the species of the tree, its condition and how it is transported. Reducing water loss as much as possible is important during transportation. Trees should not be moved on hot, windy days. The foliage may also be sprayed with an anti-transpirant prior to transplanting to reduce water loss.

As a general rule, deciduous trees transplant well if moved early in the spring before they leaf out, or in the fall after the leaves have begun to turn color. Evergreen trees should not be moved during the flush of new growth in the spring or late in the fall when it is too late for the roots to become established before winter. There are exceptions. For example, birch trees should not be moved until buds break in the spring, and trees with tap roots are difficult to move successfully regardless of the season. Some trees, such as Mountain Ash, do not transplant well when they are large plants. In this case, it is best to purchase a new, juvenile plant from a reputable grower.

There are differences between moving nursery-raised trees and trees grown in the wild or as windbreaks. Trees grown in nurseries are easier to move because they have been subject to maintenance practices such as root pruning. Root pruning promotes the growth and development of the most viable roots, resulting in maximum health and minimal stress. Trees grown in the wild are often difficult to transplant because they have grown in an understory environment that protected them from the wind. The results are large, shallow root systems and weakened trunks. Trees grown as windbreaks may be transplanted more easily if they were originally transplanted as container or B&B plants early in life. However, these trees do not make good transplants as they often suffer from poor structure due to tight plant spacing and environmental stress as well as insect and disease issues.

Understanding the root system - taproot or fibrous - will help determine the transplant capabilities of the tree, the spade size required and the success of the transplant. As a general rule, trees with tap roots will not transplant well. Most root systems develop within the upper three feet of soil with a majority of the absorbing roots in the top 6 inches. After transplanting, critical root regeneration occurs from behind the cut ends of the roots which are located close to the edge of the plug.

Soil type plays an important role in transplant success. The soil structure - clay, sand, loam, etc. - influences the tree’s root extension and penetration. Roots typically extend past the crown of the tree. Clay soil will contribute to a smaller rootball while trees grown in sandy soil will have an extensive root system. Other soil factors include the level of soil compaction and moisture. Nursery-grown trees are subject to root pruning to promote fibrous root growth and thus have root systems that are denser, but typically not as extensive, as field-grown trees. Many native trees that have grown in the wild should not be transplanted to open, exposed locations. They may be structurally weak and have a shallow, spreading root system that extends well beyond the crown of the tree due to the fact they usually grow in a shaded, protected environment.

Design:

Proper placement of trees is important to the design and sustainability of the landscape. It is important to select a location where the tree will not grow to interfere with structures, power lines, snow removal, roof lines, windows and other existing plants. The species of tree selected for a site will depend on space requirements, existing plants and structures, seasonal interest desired and the function the tree will serve in the landscape. Some common functions of trees in the landscape are:

• Trees may be used to soften the architectural lines of a building and transition the eye from the roofline to the soil;
• Trees may be used in a design to create shade and reduce summer cooling costs;
• Trees may protect a building from winter winds and thus reduce heating costs;
• Trees may act as a backdrop to a landscape;
• Trees may provide screening or a ceiling over an outdoor space.

Site considerations:

• Individuals involved should have a general understanding of the tree spading process, and be familiar with the sites where the tree spade will be operated;
• There should be adequate access for the tree spade to the original site and the new site. Because the spade is in a fixed position, it is desirable to plan the move with access to the preferred side of the tree. Maintaining the same exposure is beneficial to tree establishment.
• Locate existing power lines, underground septic systems, grade changes and note any restrictions they present;
• There should be adequate space for the tree spade to operate safely. A 44-inch tree spade requires approximately six feet around the tree that is unobstructed. A 90-inch spade requires eight feet.
• Current soil conditions should be relatively dry. If the soil is too wet, the heavy machinery will damage the soil structure. Turf should be protected with 10-12 inches of wood mulch or ¾” plywood.

When transplanting a large tree, it is important to duplicate the original conditions as closely as possible, therefore reducing stress on the tree. Soil type, planting depth, staking, watering and mulching are critical factors to the success of the transplant.

Soil type:

If possible, the soil type of the new location should match the soil type, drainage and pH of the original site as closely as possible. For large projects with many trees to be moved and transplanted, a soil analysis is recommended to compare soil structure, porosity, and amendments required. Knowledge of theses factors may favor one source of trees over another. Using a tree spade may also cause glazing, the compaction of the soil in the newly-dug hole, which will affect the lateral movement of soil moisture and root penetration. This can be resolved by roughing up the sides of the hole and the plug using a shovel, rake or fork.

Planting depth:

The root ball of the tree should be watered thoroughly prior to digging to keep the ball intact and reduce as much soil loss as possible during transport. To allow the tree to become adequately hydrated, the tree should be watered 1-2 days prior to moving the tree. When positioning the tree in the new hole, it should be placed 2-3″ higher than the original grade to allow for settling. If a tree is planted to shallow, the roots may be damaged by temperature fluctuations and lack of soil moisture. Planting a tree too deeply will result in girdling problems later. For more information:

Staking:

An important function of the plant’s root system is to anchor the plant, reducing the chance for a blow-over or uprooting by excess water or erosion. However, the roots of newly transplanted trees will not establish themselves securely in the ground for several weeks after planting. Thus they may require extra support through staking. It is important to remove the staking as soon as the tree is well-rooted as trunk strength can be weakened by long term staking.

Watering:

Because newly planted trees do not have an extensive root system, it is important to deeply water transplants on a regular basis and especially throughout dry periods to reduce water stress. Prolonged water stress will cause a tree to become susceptible to insect damage and diseases, and cause limbing that greatly affects the tree aesthetics and value in the landscape. Likewise, overwatering or poorly drained soil may create an anaerobic environment (without air) around the root zone that is favorable to rot-causing fungi and bacteria, or may cause roots to suffocate.

It is important when watering newly transplanted trees that the original soil ball and surrounding soil is saturated to a depth of 12″. Apply water slowly to entire area, allowing adequate penetration. Another option is to create a dike with soil around the outside edge of the soil ball. This dike will retain water applied in high volume, and allow it to slowly saturate the soil without erosion. This method works well when trees are watered using a watering truck or tank trailer. Watering is normally required weekly for the first month and twice a month for the rest of the first growing season. Watering should continue as needed for 2-3 seasons after transplanting. It is critical that evergreens be watered regularly and thoroughly until the soil freezes in order to prevent winter browning and needle desiccation due to dehydration by winter winds and sun exposure.

Mulch:

Newly planted trees as well as new shrubs and established woody plants benefit significantly from mulching. Some of these benefits include:

• More uniform soil temperature
• Reduced soil erosion
• Reduced weed competition
• Improved moisture retention
• Reduced damage to tree trunks and roots from mowers, weed whips, etc.
• Provides an attractive finish to shaded areas underneath trees where grass grows.

After transplanting a tree, apply a 4-6″ layer of elongated wood mulch, shredded bark or other organic mulch around the base of the tree, pulling it away from the trunk to reduce damage from trapped moisture. The mulched area should ideally reach out 10-12″ past the original root ball. Trees with dikes around the edge of the mulch ring are ideal for retaining mulch through the first growing season. The dikes can be removed after the first season, creating a clean transition between mulch and turf.

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