As lovely as a tree

They’re green. They’re tall. And they’re leafy.Trees may be all of those things, but they are also so much more. The wooden pillars give us the air we breath, material to build with and something beautiful to look at.

Lynette Kirton is the designated tree expert at Vandermeer Nursery in Ajax and she likes to talk about trees.

While many people would list autumn as their favourite season for trees because of the gold, amber and fiery colour of the leaves, Ms. Kirton prefers the greenery of summer.
“I love them in the summer and I love seeing all the variations in green,” she said.

But, trees aren’t just a pretty face. They provide practical benefits for a property owner in terms of affecting the temperature of a home.

“They give structure to your garden but the other thing is they can be used to keep your house cool if you have a large shade tree,” Ms. Kirton said.

If leafy (deciduous) trees are planted on the sunny side of a house, in the summer they will provide shade from the hot summer and in the winter they will shed their leaves to let the warming sunshine through. If pine or fir trees are planted on the north side of a house, they can help provide a windbreak that can keep the home warmer when it is cool outside. Both these benefits can add up to energy savings on a heating/cooling bill.

They can also help make a city livable by taking in the carbon dioxide in the air and releasing oxygen.

The City of Oshawa’s Rob Fennell knows the environmental benefits of trees.

“Trees filter the air and they help to mediate pollution,” he said. “There is more evidence that having more tree cover actually helps to sequester (remove and store) carbon, which helps with climate change.”

Mr. Fennell is Oshawa’s supervisor of forestry. He said the municipality knows the benefits of trees and that’s why it plants more than 1,000 a year in addition to the 28,000 trees it already has lining city streets (there are thousands more in greenbelts and parks).

“They improve the streetscape and the appearance of an area,” he said. “They help with property values too.”

After working with trees for nearly 20 years, Mr. Fennell has his own reasons for why he likes to have them around.

“They provide wildlife habitat,” he said. “And if you picture an area that doesn’t have trees and is all buildings and you see an area with trees, it just sort of softens the whole look and ties you in with nature.”

There are many things to keep in mind before deciding what tree to buy. Ms. Kirton advises people think about what they want the tree for and then think about things such as does it flower or produce fruit? Is it prone to diseases? And how big will it get?

“You have to get something that’s in keeping with the size of the yard,” she said, not just right now, but in 50 years time.

“Don’t always choose a tree because you like it, choose because of the location,” Ms. Kirton said. “You do have to put the right tree in the right place.”

And she doesn’t recommend anyone buy a tree as a gift — get a gift certificate instead.

“Beauty is in the eye of the beholder,” she said. “Buying a tree is a very personal thing.”

Transplanting Trees with a Tree Spade

Tree spading is a common method for moving and transplanting large trees from one site to another. The following are some reasons for transplanting large trees vs. younger, smaller trees are:

• To prevent the loss of a tree due to building, roadway expansion or other construction;
• To create space for a new building addition;
• A particular mature tree has outgrown its present location;
• To alter the design of a landscape;
• To move a tree to a site better suited to its needs;
• To create a mature landscape quickly.

Initially, transplanting a tree with a tree spade may be more costly than purchasing container stock or B&B trees. However, the tree spade may be the best option if a tree will otherwise be lost or if the value of the tree outweighs the moving costs. Spading is also saves labor, planting time and years of maintenance of the juvenile tree. Spading also eliminates the possible risk of mower damage that commonly occurs on younger, smaller trees.

Tree spades are used in various ways throughout the green industry. Commercial nurseries use tree spades to lift large, field-grown trees out of the soil, and wrap the root ball in burlap and twine (termed “ball and burlap” or B&B) for retail sale or compact storage. Landscape companies and arborists use spades to plant large trees that are nursery-grown or have been moved from elsewhere in the landscape. Landscape professionals use a tree spade to create an “instant landscape” by digging and transplanting large trees from one location to another.

Homeowners can also use spades to locate trees on residential sites. Trailer-mounted spades that can hold a soil ball up to 44 inches in diameter are available at some rental centers. However, due to safety issues, and the complexity of the equipment and processes involved, it is strongly recommended that individuals hire an experienced contractor specializing in tree spading to transplant trees.

Supplies and Specifications:

Tree spades are available in a variety of types and sizes. Some spades have the capacity to move a tree with a maximum trunk diameter of eight to 10 inches, or a soil ball up to 90 inches in diameter. The size of the spade is critical. It must be large enough to accommodate a root ball that will sufficiently sustain the tree after planting. If a spade is too small, the root system will be too small to allow for long term establishment and the tree will die. When determining the spade size needed to move a tree, deciduous trees are measured by trunk diameter and evergreens are measured by tree height. A tree spade can be used to move one tree at a time or a pod trailer may be used to move as many as three trees at one time.

Tree spade size	Deciduous tree - trunk diameter	Evergreen tree - height
44 inches	2 to 3 inches	5 to 7 feet
66 inches	3 to 5 inches	7 to 10 feet
92 inches	6 to 8 inches	12 to 15 feet
Trunk diameters are measured using a caliper, six inches above the ground for tree four inches in diameter or smaller and 12 inches above the ground for trees with a large diameter.

Fig. 1 Tree spades according to tree sizes
(Source: http://hflp.sdstate.edu/exex6021.htm)

Many trees can be moved any time of the year using a tree spade, providing the ground is not frozen. Certain species such as firs, maples, and spruce are best transplanted during the cooler months of spring and early fall. Plants moved in the summer and fall should be dug with an oversized root ball with special attention paid to the species of the tree, its condition and how it is transported. Reducing water loss as much as possible is important during transportation. Trees should not be moved on hot, windy days. The foliage may also be sprayed with an anti-transpirant prior to transplanting to reduce water loss.

As a general rule, deciduous trees transplant well if moved early in the spring before they leaf out, or in the fall after the leaves have begun to turn color. Evergreen trees should not be moved during the flush of new growth in the spring or late in the fall when it is too late for the roots to become established before winter. There are exceptions. For example, birch trees should not be moved until buds break in the spring, and trees with tap roots are difficult to move successfully regardless of the season. Some trees, such as Mountain Ash, do not transplant well when they are large plants. In this case, it is best to purchase a new, juvenile plant from a reputable grower.

There are differences between moving nursery-raised trees and trees grown in the wild or as windbreaks. Trees grown in nurseries are easier to move because they have been subject to maintenance practices such as root pruning. Root pruning promotes the growth and development of the most viable roots, resulting in maximum health and minimal stress. Trees grown in the wild are often difficult to transplant because they have grown in an understory environment that protected them from the wind. The results are large, shallow root systems and weakened trunks. Trees grown as windbreaks may be transplanted more easily if they were originally transplanted as container or B&B plants early in life. However, these trees do not make good transplants as they often suffer from poor structure due to tight plant spacing and environmental stress as well as insect and disease issues.

Understanding the root system - taproot or fibrous - will help determine the transplant capabilities of the tree, the spade size required and the success of the transplant. As a general rule, trees with tap roots will not transplant well. Most root systems develop within the upper three feet of soil with a majority of the absorbing roots in the top 6 inches. After transplanting, critical root regeneration occurs from behind the cut ends of the roots which are located close to the edge of the plug.

Soil type plays an important role in transplant success. The soil structure - clay, sand, loam, etc. - influences the tree’s root extension and penetration. Roots typically extend past the crown of the tree. Clay soil will contribute to a smaller rootball while trees grown in sandy soil will have an extensive root system. Other soil factors include the level of soil compaction and moisture. Nursery-grown trees are subject to root pruning to promote fibrous root growth and thus have root systems that are denser, but typically not as extensive, as field-grown trees. Many native trees that have grown in the wild should not be transplanted to open, exposed locations. They may be structurally weak and have a shallow, spreading root system that extends well beyond the crown of the tree due to the fact they usually grow in a shaded, protected environment.

Design:

Proper placement of trees is important to the design and sustainability of the landscape. It is important to select a location where the tree will not grow to interfere with structures, power lines, snow removal, roof lines, windows and other existing plants. The species of tree selected for a site will depend on space requirements, existing plants and structures, seasonal interest desired and the function the tree will serve in the landscape. Some common functions of trees in the landscape are:

• Trees may be used to soften the architectural lines of a building and transition the eye from the roofline to the soil;
• Trees may be used in a design to create shade and reduce summer cooling costs;
• Trees may protect a building from winter winds and thus reduce heating costs;
• Trees may act as a backdrop to a landscape;
• Trees may provide screening or a ceiling over an outdoor space.

Site considerations:

• Individuals involved should have a general understanding of the tree spading process, and be familiar with the sites where the tree spade will be operated;
• There should be adequate access for the tree spade to the original site and the new site. Because the spade is in a fixed position, it is desirable to plan the move with access to the preferred side of the tree. Maintaining the same exposure is beneficial to tree establishment.
• Locate existing power lines, underground septic systems, grade changes and note any restrictions they present;
• There should be adequate space for the tree spade to operate safely. A 44-inch tree spade requires approximately six feet around the tree that is unobstructed. A 90-inch spade requires eight feet.
• Current soil conditions should be relatively dry. If the soil is too wet, the heavy machinery will damage the soil structure. Turf should be protected with 10-12 inches of wood mulch or ¾” plywood.

For more information about using trees in a landscape:
Fitting Trees and Shrubs into the Landscape
Planting Trees in Minnesota

When transplanting a large tree, it is important to duplicate the original conditions as closely as possible, therefore reducing stress on the tree. Soil type, planting depth, staking, watering and mulching are critical factors to the success of the transplant.

Soil type: If possible, the soil type of the new location should match the soil type, drainage and pH of the original site as closely as possible. For large projects with many trees to be moved and transplanted, a soil analysis is recommended to compare soil structure, porosity, and amendments required. Knowledge of theses factors may favor one source of trees over another. Using a tree spade may also cause glazing, the compaction of the soil in the newly-dug hole, which will affect the lateral movement of soil moisture and root penetration. This can be resolved by roughing up the sides of the hole and the plug using a shovel, rake or fork.

Planting depth: The root ball of the tree should be watered thoroughly prior to digging to keep the ball intact and reduce as much soil loss as possible during transport. To allow the tree to become adequately hydrated, the tree should be watered 1-2 days prior to moving the tree. When positioning the tree in the new hole, it should be placed 2-3″ higher than the original grade to allow for settling. If a tree is planted to shallow, the roots may be damaged by temperature fluctuations and lack of soil moisture. Planting a tree too deeply will result in girdling problems later. For more information:

Planting Bare Root, Containterized, and Balled and Burlapped Trees and Shrubs
Planting and Transplanting Trees and Shrubs

Staking: An important function of the plant’s root system is to anchor the plant, reducing the chance for a blow-over or uprooting by excess water or erosion. However, the roots of newly transplanted trees will not establish themselves securely in the ground for several weeks after planting. Thus they may require extra support through staking. It is important to remove the staking as soon as the tree is well-rooted as trunk strength can be weakened by long term staking.

Watering: Because newly planted trees do not have an extensive root system, it is important to deeply water transplants on a regular basis and especially throughout dry periods to reduce water stress. Prolonged water stress will cause a tree to become susceptible to insect damage and diseases, and cause limbing that greatly affects the tree aesthetics and value in the landscape. Likewise, overwatering or poorly drained soil may create an anaerobic environment (without air) around the root zone that is favorable to rot-causing fungi and bacteria, or may cause roots to suffocate.

It is important when watering newly transplanted trees that the original soil ball and surrounding soil is saturated to a depth of 12″. Apply water slowly to entire area, allowing adequate penetration. Another option is to create a dike with soil around the outside edge of the soil ball. This dike will retain water applied in high volume, and allow it to slowly saturate the soil without erosion. This method works well when trees are watered using a watering truck or tank trailer. Watering is normally required weekly for the first month and twice a month for the rest of the first growing season. Watering should continue as needed for 2-3 seasons after transplanting. It is critical that evergreens be watered regularly and thoroughly until the soil freezes in order to prevent winter browning and needle desiccation due to dehydration by winter winds and sun exposure.

For more details about protecting trees and shrubs from winter damage:
Protecting Trees and Shrubs Against Winter Damage

Mulch: Newly planted trees as well as new shrubs and established woody plants benefit significantly from mulching. Some of these benefits include:

• More uniform soil temperature
• Reduced soil erosion
• Reduced weed competition
• Improved moisture retention
• Reduced damage to tree trunks and roots from mowers, weed whips, etc.
• Provides an attractive finish to shaded areas underneath trees where grass grows.

After transplanting a tree, apply a 4-6″ layer of elongated wood mulch, shredded bark or other organic mulch around the base of the tree, pulling it away from the trunk to reduce damage from trapped moisture. The mulched area should ideally reach out 10-12″ past the original root ball. Trees with dikes around the edge of the mulch ring are ideal for retaining mulch through the first growing season. The dikes can be removed after the first season, creating a clean transition between mulch and turf.

Transplanting Techniques

Effects of Antitranspirants and a Water Absorbing Polymer on the
Establishment of Transplanted Live Oaks

The cost and return of every operation in a nursery is examined by the prudent manager. Use of antitranspirants and other commercially available products to aid in survival and establishment of transplanted trees is no exception. For this reason, an experiment was conducted at the tree nursery of Burbage Tree Movers in Oak Hill, Florida. Two antitranspirants and a water-absorbing polymer were evaluated as aids to survival and establishment of live oaks under 2 water regimes.

Sixty-four 4-inch caliper live oaks, Quercus virginiana , were selected from a block of 800 trees that had been grown in the field for 4.5 years. On the morning of August 8, 1984, 16 trees were sprayed with a 1 to 10 dilution of Wilt-Pruf (Wilt-Pruf Products, Inc., Greenwich, CT), 16 trees were sprayed with a 1 to 2 dilution of Cloud Cover (Adkar, Inc., McAlien, TX) and 16 trees were sprayed with water. All leaves were thoroughly covered using a back-pack, air-blast sprayer. Six oz. of TerraSorb, a starch polymer by Industrial Services International, Bradenton, FL, were distributed on the sides of each of 16 planting holes for trees not sprayed. Trees were dug with a 44-inch tree spade on August 22 and 23 and moved 100 to 200 yards to another site in the nursery where holes were prepared using the same tree spade. The air temperature was 88 to 90° F and the sky was partly cloudy. All trees were watered thoroughly after transplanting and a berm of soil was constructed around each tree to facilitate water retention. Ten branch tips on each tree were marked with paint for measuring the amount of new growth in the spring of 1985.

Treatments were replicated 8 times in a split block design with water regime constituting the sub-blocks. Each tree received 18 gallons of water applied through two Robert’s spot spitters per tree either daily or 7 days after the last irrigation or rainfall of at least 1 inch. Trees were spaced 8 feet on center and 12 feet were allowed between blocks. Leaf drop was rated 6, 15 and 21 days after transplanting using a scale of 1 to 6 with 1 denoting no leaf drop and 6 indicating severe leaf drop. Visual quality ratings were made on days 21, 36, 57 and 250 using a scale of 1 to 3 with 3 denoting the highest quality. The length of new growth on the 10 marked branches and the number of surviving trees was determined May 8, 1985.

There were no interactive effects on survival between water rate and the other treatments. Fifty-five percent of trees watered weekly and 65 percent of trees watered daily survived. Visual ratings after 21 and 37 days were greater if trees were watered daily (2.4, 2.4) than those watered weekly (2.1, 2.1). Sixty-seven, 80, 38 and 54 percent of trees survived when treated with water, Wilt-Pruf, Cloud Cover or TerraSorb, respectively.

Cloud Cover resulted in less leaf drop (2.4) than Wilt-Pruf (3.7) on day 6 and the effects of the control (3.2) and TerraSorb (2.7) were intermediate. There were no differences in leaf drop due to treatments on days 15 or 21.

There was no significant visual quality rating difference due to the antitranspirants or the TerraSorb on days 36, 57 and 250. If only surviving trees were used in the analysis, Cloud Cover resulted in the highest quality rating on days 36 and 57. However, only 6 of 16 trees treated with Cloud Cover survived. Mean branch tip growth was increased by the daily water (6.8 cm) compared to weekly watering (5.7 cm) only if TerraSorb had been added at planting. Otherwise, branch growth was not affected.

Transplanting 4-inch caliper live oaks in August in central Florida is risky under conditions described in this paper. Cloud Cover was of little benefit in terms of survival, but improved slightly the visual appearance of surviving trees approximately 1 and 2 months after transplanting. TerraSorb increased spring growth when the trees were watered weekly, while Wilt-Pruf appeared to aid in terms of survival. This study provided extreme conditions for tree survival, and different results may be obtained with other conditions.

The Mighty Oak Tree

The term oak can be used as part of the common name of any of several hundred species of trees and shrubs in the genus Quercus, and some related genera, notably Cyclobalanopsis and Lithocarpus.

The genus is native to the northern hemisphere, and includes deciduous and evergreen species extending from cold latitudes to tropical Asia and the Americas. Oaks have spirally arranged leaves, with a lobed margin in many species; some have serrated leaves or entire leaves with a smooth margin.

The flowers are catkins, produced in spring.

The fruit is a nut called an acorn, borne in a cup-like structure known as a cupule; each acorn contains one seed (rarely two or three) and takes 6-18 months to mature, depending on species.

Oaks are hardwood trees, and the wood is commonly used in furniture and flooring.

The term oak can be used as part of the common name of any of several hundred species of trees and shrubs in the genus Quercus, and some related genera, notably Cyclobalanopsis and Lithocarpus.

The genus is native to the northern hemisphere, and includes deciduous and evergreen species extending from cold latitudes to tropical Asia and the Americas. Oaks have spirally arranged leaves, with a lobed margin in many species; some have serrated leaves or entire leaves with a smooth margin.

The flowers are catkins, produced in spring.

The fruit is a nut called an acorn, borne in a cup-like structure known as a cupule; each acorn contains one seed (rarely two or three) and takes 6-18 months to mature, depending on species.

Oaks are hardwood trees, and the wood is commonly used in furniture and flooring.

We each owe the Earth 16 trees

I you want to put back into the atmosphere the oxygen you will breath in a lifetime, take out your spade and plant some trees.

You will also help offset the climate-changing carbon dioxide you pump into the air by urban living, each time you drive a car or switch on a light.

It takes 16 trees to supply the oxygen for one person’s life. So we each owe the Earth 16 trees.